Difficulty : moderate Cost : Less than 10 euros Tools required : - an anti-puncture kit - a flat wrench for the wheel nut - a piece of chalk or a marker - a pump to re-inflate the wheel
Step 1: Check these points before you start
Check the valve type as explained above before purchasing the puncture repair kit.
On the sidewall of the tire must appear the mention "tubeless", ie without tube.
Step 2: Remove the wheel
Using the open-end wrench, loosen the nut to remove the wheel. You may need another key opposite to prevent the axis from turning.
Step 3: Inspect the tire
All foreign objects that may be stuck in the tire must be removed. Needle nose pliers or tweezers may be helpful.
Step 4: Spot the leaks
Put water in the tank and inflate the wheel. Immerse it in it and visually locate all the places where small bubbles escape (there may be several). For more precision, take the wheel out of the water and run dishwashing liquid to the spot you have located. Where the bubbles swell, there is a hole.
Use chalk to indicate the location of the hole by marking the sidewall of the tire.
Step 5: Remove the shell from the valve
All kits have a tool to remove the shell from the valve.
If you have not already done so, deflate the wheel (if necessary), then insert the tool and unscrew normally, counterclockwise.
Gently remove the shell and put it in a safe place.
Step 6: Insert the kit
With the valve core removed, turn the wheel so that the valve is in the 4 or 8 o'clock position. This is important to avoid that the repair liquid spills unnecessarily on the central part if it is in the midday position, or that its insertion is hindered by a too dense heap if it is in the 6 o'clock position.
Press the bottle to let the clogging liquid penetrate. The recommended quantity is specified on the label: in our case, half the bottle is recommended. Slowly turn the wheel and linger on the places marked with chalk, positioning the marks downwards so that the liquid clogs the openings.
Step 7: Reassemble the elements
The puncture protection kit is inserted into the tire. Reassemble the valve with the tool, and inflate to the pressure indicated on the tire. In the unlikely event that your wheel is not original, you must also look at the inflation pressure that the rim accepts, it is written on it, and inflate to the lower of the two maximum pressure values indicated.
Reassemble the wheel and tighten the nut. Leave the chalk marks in the 6 o'clock position in case the liquid is not completely frozen inside. That's all. Not only is the hole blocked, but you are now protected against other punctures that may occur. It is so simple that one could almost wonder why the wheels are not treated directly at the factory against punctures…?